July 3, 2014 – Orisson, France

It’s only 8 kilometers or about five miles from Saint-Jean-Pied-de –Port to Orisson, but I didn’t want to hike the full 28 kilometers to Rocenvalles the first day, so I made a reservation here. Contrary to predictions, there have been no rainstorms today, but it is cloudy wet and cool. In fact the last few kilometers we were walking in a cloud, and water was condensing from the air onto my clothes. I was put off at first by the fact that so many people were passing me on the Camino, and I wasn’t passing anyone, but finally I looked at my watch and realized that I was way ahead of schedule. I found a semi-dry stone to sit on, and watched the others come by.  Some were struggling. I took pity on an 18-year-old English girl and walked with her to encourage her. Now she is somewhere ahead still hiking up the pass, and I have been told that there is nowhere after this to stop until Rocenvalles, 17 kilometers farther on, most of which is uphill. Here's a picture of the Orisson refuge from outside.

Here is what the inside of the bar and restaurant looked like when I arrived and few other people were there.

Across the little road from the refuge, there is a patio,which is a pleasant place to sit when it's not raining. I'm told that it has a spectacular view  of the valley, but we couldn't see it, because the clouds below blocked our view.

 
As always, there are some interesting characters here. The liveliest of them is an Irishman named Mark who, when I met him, had a beer in one hand and another lined up on the table. He claims to be an ex-journalist who left the trade to get a PhD in psychology. He just finished his studies and is now doing the Camino for the second time before looking for a job. He’s the life of the party (and it is like a party here) who talks with everyone on almost any subject. Like most of the men here, he’s pot-bellied, and it’s hard for me to imagine how he will make it all the way to Rocenvalles tomorrow.

Supper is included in the price of lodging here, and the last time I was here, there was unlimited wine with the meal. I expect things to get livelier as the evening goes on.

This is Basque Country, although on the French side of the border. It’ interesting listening to the people who work here talk with one another, because they switch among the French, Spanish, and Basque languages. They can also speak basic English.

Incidentally, the music playing in the restaurant is by the Tigres del Norte, a group that specializes in Northern Mexican music but lives in California.

I see that there are several multilingual BS sessions going on outside, so I’m going to leave the computer and join in.

Later: 1 took this picture at supper. The empty seat at the front of the long table is mine. Needless to say, I was by far the oldest person there.

PS/ I'm uploading this from Rocenvallea, Spain, so I made it across, although it was very difficult due to the pouring rain. I'll try to get today's post, July 4, up later. The Internet connection is very slow.